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Styrospray 1000 Where To Buy

StyroSpray 1000 is a simple to apply hard coating for carved foam shapes. It is applied by paint brush, foam roller or spray applied with a low cost gravity feed hopper spray gun. It provides a strong, lightweight uniformly smooth appearance, which can be coated with any type of solvent or water base paints. StyroSpray creates a hard plastic shell over foam fabrication of signs, decorative theming, paper mache construction and concrete molds. It seals hardens and waterproofs hot wire cut or carved foam shapes for indoor and outdoor installations.

styrospray 1000 where to buy

It provides the same durable hard coat finish as a fast set, high pressure, 2 component polyurea hard coating. StyroSpray eliminates the need for expensive high pressure spraying equipment to apply hard coating to EPS foam shapes. StyroSpray is 100% solids polyurea hard coating product; it contains no water or solvents to evaporate away. Most water and solvent base paints contain 30 to 40% water or solvent which is lost. The coverage of StyroSpray 1000 is nearly twice as much as other (water or solvent base) coatings you may be using. It contains no solvents or VOCs which can damage the environment and is classified as nonhazardous for shipping purposes.

CNC Router CNC Foam Reliefs for Insulation and Decoration Our boat is to be a work boat and industrial by function, but its also our home and we want it to reflect our sense of beauty and comfort. The majority of the cruising boats we have seen follow a uniform decor guideline similar to homes in a homeowner community. We want something difference, which is part of the reason a junk sailboat appealed to us. We also have no fascination with any particular style or culture. Our little house and its decor is a blend of Columbian, Mexican, African and our boat will be a blend of the things we like as well. So the plan is to exploit our CNC table toward that end. We plan to spray the interior of the hull and pilot house with the traditional insulating foam, and then add in metal, wood or fiberglass fixtures. The fixtures will be trimmed with CNC cut foam. Any remaining wall spaces and all of the ceiling will be covered with CNC carved foam reliefs. To protect the surface of the foam, we can coat it with epoxy,StyroSafe or StyroShield or StyroSpray 1000 fromwww.industrialpolymers.comExamples of StyroSpray It runs $120 for 2 gallons. Two coats on a 4x8 sheet will cost about $18.

We did some testing with StyroSpray 1000 and found it to be a good adhesive and sealer for the exterior. It would take a lot of time to apply sufficient coats, but it would make a durable exterior coating. However it would be too long of a process to add sufficient coats in order to allow it to be machined.

Most areas of the world use polystyrene for food service products, packaging, construction and marine uses. This means a foam block molder is usually not far from your location no matter where in the world you are located. In an effort to keep this list current please contact us if you know of any bad links posted here, or if there is a company that should be on this list.

Styrene is composed of Benzene (liquid) and Ethylene (gas), both of which are petroleum products. EPS begins as a styrene monomer which goes through a process where the styrene monomers link into larger molecules called polystyrene.

9) Now take apart the foam template and un-tape the two torso sections. Make sure to mark where each piece was located. Take one of the template torso sections and make a mark where you would like to divide the three sections. Now trace the torso section onto a 2 " thick sheet of foam board. Repeat this process 6 more time using the 1/2 " template only. Try and place the tracings as close together as possible in order not to waste too much foam. Carefully saw or cut out the seven torso sections. Stack them up and set them aside for now.

18) We are almost ready to start carving! The first thing to do is to tac-glue the torso parts together. Your sections should already be marked as to their position, but if not, do so now. I would mark them as C for center, the left side sections as L1, L2, L3 and the right side sections as R1 , R2 , R3 . I found that several small dabs of Loctite 5 Min. epoxy for plastic works very well and the glued parts are workable after about twenty minutes. Glue part L1 to the left side of section C , then R1 to the right side of section C. Continue until all sections are tac-glued together. Try to keep the glue away from the edges where you will be carving on, as the epoxy can be a little hard to carve or sand. Use flat boards with weights on them to press the sections together for a good tight bond. Before starting to actually carve, take a magic marker and draw a border line about an inch or more away from the leg cut-outs and from both the front and rear ends of the torso. When starting to shape the back and belly, avoid the areas inside the border lines The reason for this, is that it is better to have a little extra foam to sand off after the neck and tail portions are glued on and when the legs are attached. With foam carving, it is always easier to take more off then to try and add some on. You may want to draw a straight line down the center of the back (head to tail) and try not to sand on it until last. Frequently check from the front and back to make sure you are taking equal amounts off from each side. Alternate sides frequently and refer to any good fleshed-out pictures you may have. I usually use a fillet knife or Ginzu knife to take off foam from the squared edges then switch to the rasp to round off. I also leave the belly for later, this way I can set the torso upright on the flat belly while working on the back. As you start to round the rib cage, occasionally set the legs in and do a little rounding on the upper thigh areas. If you switch between working on the torso and then on the upper outside leg portions you will begin to get a sense of how to blend the body into the thighs. Before I forget, take your magic marker and draw a line on the inside of the legs were they meet the torso, then write no-sand on the upper inside leg portions that fit into the torso. If you want, you can take a break from working on the torso and switch to the head and neck section. Again, always leave extra foam on the area that will be glued together. After these pieces are glued in place you can then finish off the thicker joint areas.

This is a judgment call on your part. Once the legs are glued on, they tend to get in the way as you shape the areas where they meet the body on the belly side. Before actually gluing the legs on, ask yourself this question: (If I glue the legs on now, will it make my job harder or easier?). This question can apply to when to attach the neck and tail as well. My experiences have led me to delay attaching these parts too soon, as once they are glued on they can be easily damaged as you rotate the whole body around to position it for easy carving or sanding. Make some foam wedges from your scrap foam to stabilize the body while on your workbench.

The rubber band method: With this method I mark the reference lines as described above. I then use two all-threads and screw them through both the torso and tail or neck about six inches from where they will join together. You will have several inches of rod protruding from both sides. Mix up your epoxy and apply it to the tail or neck press the tail or neck to the torso, aligning the reference marks, have your helper stretch out and slip a rubberband over both the front and rear all-thread rods, one on one side then one on the other side, until you have enough rubber bands to firmly hold the two parts together until the glue/epoxy is dry. This method allows you to use slower setting glues or epoxies.

Finally you can set the teeth in. You can use either a slower epoxy for plastic or mix a small batch (about an ounce of Styrospray) and dip the root of the tooth into the Styrospray and set the tooth in place. Use enough glue to seal the tooth in place so there are no gaps or holes in the gums. Now go back with your mouth color and touch up any areas where the glue is showing.

You have your choice as to carve the toes and claws on the legs or arms, or carving them separately and gluing them onto the leg or arm. If you choose to carve them while a part of the leg or arm then a lot of measuring and planning is needed, especially when dealing with long bending fingers and curved claws. It is not that difficult when dealing with something like the foot of a Triceratops or Saurapods, as the feet are generally short, wide and blunt. It is much more difficult when making a raptor foot or hand. where the toes and fingers are quite long and narrow, with highly curved claws of different lengths.

I like to carve the instep part on the leg up to the point where the toes start. I then measure the length of each toe and the claws separatley. It is very easy to work with a piece of foam that is only 2 - 10 inches long and 2 - 4 inches square. Shaping is very easy and getting the correct length is simple. When gluing them to the foot, adjusting the angle (splaying) is also very easy. Once glued on, I use Apoxie Sculpt to blend the toes into the foot. This also makes the joint quite strong. Because most toes and toe claws are fairly straight, it is not too hard to carve the claw directly on the end of the toe. An exception is the killing claw on a raptor which is a little more difficult but can be done with a little pre-planning. (The toes, claws, fingers and hand claws on the two Velociraptors in my Gallery are all foam.) The claws on the rest of my carvings are either carved wood or Apoxie Sculpt. In my opinion, claws made from Apoxie Sculpt are the best, as they can be highly pointed and razor edged if desired. Plus Apoxie Sculpt does not shrink, crack or expand due to temperature or humidity like wooden claws may. 041b061a72


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